For over thirty-three years, Warung Agus has been serving traditional Balinese cuisine from its West Melbourne location.

The family-owned and operated restaurant is headed by the family matriarch, Mary Ida Bagus, and now three generations of the family work in the business.

“In 1989, this was the first Balinese restaurant in Melbourne. But even before that, my parents, Mary and Agus, offered Balinese catering and pop-ups around Melbourne,” says Suci, Mary and Agus’ daughter.

“They realised that the demand for Balinese food was getting bigger, and a lot of people didn't really know about the cuisine and the culture. So, they decided to open up a permanent restaurant.”

Suci’s parents chose the Victoria Street location for its proximity to Queen Victoria Market and to stay within their community.  

“We all grew up and went to school around North and West Melbourne - all the children and grandchildren. We all still live within walking distance of here,” Suci smiles.

The restaurant is a colourful collection of items that Mary has gathered over the years. Aside from constant minor improvements, the family has preserved the original two dining rooms. There is also outdoor dining on a large parklet, featuring plants and Balinese umbrellas. Keen eyes will notice ceiling tapestries from West Bali, ceremonial urns, and a traditional shadow puppet made by an uncle, a famous puppeteer.

“It's been like an evolution of adding things. We try to keep the decor interesting and to have a lot of visual stimulation but not be cluttered,” explains Suci. “We love warm restaurants that have a personality. So, we tried to create that vibe here with flowers and plants, because that's what it's like in Bali.” 

Warung Agus’ recipes are generational family creations with a specifically West Balinese influence due to Agus’ background. Suci’s sister now helms the kitchen after being trained by her father. 

The menu has a large range of vegan and gluten-free options, as well as the famous Balinese Babi Guling and Betutu.

“A dish I recommend is called Ayam Betutu, which is a twice-cooked chicken that’s very famous in West Bali. The way that we do it is quite different to a lot of other restaurants. It’s really tender, it's almost like you can just take it apart with a fork, and that's how you do it in Bali. It's not crispy; it's more succulent.”

Sui’s favourite menu item is the eggplant sambal made with eggplant, tofu, sweet soy and coconut.  

“It was an accidental dish,” she laughs. “Dad was trying to make an eggplant sambal, and he put a few things together and ended up with this amazing caramelised eggplant and tofu dish. Everyone loves it.”

After thirty-three years in the same location, the restaurant has built a loyal following and strong community.

“It's really satisfying to have people come in and have a nice experience and to see people trying new things that they weren't sure they'd like and enjoying it. We’re proud to have introduced and normalised Balinese food for generations of Melbournians.

“And when we have Balinese customers, it’s beautiful to see how emotional they get when they eat our food. 

“Food is family, food is memory, and food is culture.”

Words by Joyce Watts
Photography By Anna Encio